HEADING SOUTH ON HIGHWAY 14 out of Yellville, Arkansas, there’s an abrupt decline in civilization as the tree canopy closes in and the road begins to wind and drop toward the bridge at Dillard’s Ferry. No more gas stations. No more car washes. No improved pastures or homesteads. Just a couple of B&B inns and canoe livery shacks, opportunistic endeavors that support a clean-flowing river.
The Buffalo got its “National River” designation in 1972 when Arkansans decided that this wild and un-dammed jewel of the Ozarks needed a little extra love. From its headwaters in the Boston Mountains, the Buffalo winds for 135 miles through limestone canyons and hardwood forests before pouring into the White River below Cotter.
I first heard about the Buffalo River a few years back while trout-fishing on the White with guides Steve Dally and Ben Levin. They said that the Buffalo was the quintessential smallmouth bass experience and that someday we should plan a float.
Well, we did.
On Tuesday, May 5th, an entourage of driftboats, guides, anglers, swampers, camping gear, and cameras gathered at the gravel ramp at Rush Boat Landing on the Lower Buffalo. After stringing up rods and stowing gear, I pulled out my cellphone and noted that we were essentially off-the-grid before we even started.
No signal, no service. Nothing to do but fish, shoot photos, and float a great river with good friends.
Over the next three days we covered 26 miles of river, caught scads of fish, camped in comfort, ate like kings, and laughed ourselves silly. I should note, that we also had absolute perfect weather and exceptional river flow and clarity. I suppose that less-than-favorable conditions could have possibly dampened my enthusiasm for this trip; but short of a Biblical flood (which happened the day after we left) this fact remains: the Buffalo is an extraordinary river, and if you like flowing water and stunning scenery and zero hint of mankind to muddle the view, it should be tops on your list to experience.
While our main goal was smallmouth on the fly, we also caught crowds of longears, greenies, Ozark bass, and one longnose gar. There was no pressure to pass up shots at one specie in favor of another, and if you missed a bite because you were gazing at incredible scenery or watching a bald eagle soar overhead…hey, no biggie. The fish were hungry and the action was steady.
If you’d like to try this trip, call the boys at Dally’s Ozark Fly Fisher and get your name on the list. Buffalo departures will be limited, each spring, so don’t…uh…dally around…if you’re pining to fish it.
Thanks to all involved for pulling off an extraordinary adventure. To see the entire Buffalo River photo shoot, please click here.
Miles Nolte and John Boatwright working a bucket
Bronze beauty
Bass kibble
Gaper’s gar
No phone, no light, no motorcar…
Longear sunfish on a 3-weight
Abe and Buck tending the morning vittles
Ben Levin knows smallies like very few others
Ozark bass on a Boogle Bug
Kevin, Chad, and Miles slinging string
I’ll never tire of these
Fishing Mullahs
Bubble bass
Gabe Levin working a rock ledge
In the evenings we had sport
Gravel bar bruschetta
Fireside minner session with Chad Johnson and Kevin Vincent
Yep, that’s box wine. No glass allowed on the Buffalo. No down, either.
Whiskey hour
Goodnight, John Boy…
